Konnichi-wa fashion, sayonara good taste

How do you know you're in Harajuku, the fashion mecca of Japan? Well that's easy. First look for the balloon decorated archway. That's always a good clue.

Walk under the arch and you will find yourself on Takeshita Dori. Look around. There are stores selling socks and stores selling shoes. There are gothic shops and lolitta shops and gothic lolita shops. And shops selling what you dearly hope are costumes.

The crowd is mostly under 21. Even on a weekday you can't walk faster than a shuffle without running somebody over. But that's okay because you're too busy looking to walk.

There are shops with creepy bunnyies standing guard.

And shops filled with airplanes full of accessories.

The color, the motion and the noise of it all is incredible. You read the shop names ACDC, Make You Happy World, and this:

You are overwhelmed by it, and who would not be. But you are safe here. Even fashion capitols have laws.

You may not understand them all - but they exist.

After walking through once, just staring from side to side, you make a second pass, this time working up the courage to actually enter some of the stores. Most won't allow you to take pictures, so you keep your eyes wide open, hoping the cacophony of colors won't strike you blind.

A second floor level lolita shop is advertising a sale. You go inside. How could you not? The music is deafening. But after you adjust you realize you are hearing "Hi ho, hi ho, it's off to work we go." with a techno beat. It's followed by the theme song from the emperor's new groove, also in techno.

The clothes are classic lolita, all petticoats and ruffles and little girl style in big girl sizes. Well not that big, it is Japan after all. But have you ever seen Alice in Wonderland. Picture that dress on a 20 year old and you get the idea.

Every time you become overwhelmed you walk to the end off the street and out into the rest of the city. Suddenly the world is a couple of decibels quieter. The colors are calmer. You can think. Then your curiosity gets the best of you and you dive again into the madness.

I leave you today with a quote from Mark Twain, "Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society."